Friday 16 April 2010

Stobi (Стоби)

The excavations at Stobi (map) have uncovered large parts of the late Roman town, including the remains of several spectacular mosaics. Unfortunately, the season was only just starting, and so most were still covered.


A morning's work

The workmen, though, were already hard at work by the time I arrived, - an hour late, having decided to use the rare opportunity to travel by train, not the bus. This was also the first time someone has refused to sell me a ticket, not because the train was full, or I was ineligible for the fare for some reason, but because 'it is always late'. Perhaps not one to mention to ATOC.

Most important of all, though, I have to thank Dimitri, who, refusing to abandon me to divine the passing times of busses, kindly gave up several hours of his time first to take me to Stobi from Gradsko, where the train stopped..., then to collect me and took me on to Negotino, the town to the south where the local museum is..., and finally, to drive me to Kavardarci and the luxury of a bus station with at least a nominal timetable, - all on his feast day! Without him I might still be there, puzzling...


Excavation under way

The episcopal complex at Stobi particularly impressive, with no fewer than seven distinct phases identified, as well as a splendid mosaic in the baptistery.


The Baptistry

More unusual, though, is a smaller basilica further down the hill, near the 'Theodosian Palace'. The mosaics include Stars of David, perhaps indicating that this was a synagogue in its 2nd/3rd century AD phase.


'The Synagogue Basilica'

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