Thursday 22 April 2010

Lycia Day 3: the Letoum, Xanthus, and Patara

The Letoum (map), near Xanthus, became one of the most important religious sites in Lycia in the Hellenistic period not just for the city itself, but for the whole Lycian League. As the name suggests, it was primarily dedicated to Leto, mother of Apollo and Artemis, and one version of Apollo's birth myth had him born here rather than at Delos.


The three temples of the Letoum

It is also important as the place where the Xanthus trilingual was found, the local equivalent of the Rosetta Stone. With closely related texts written in Greek, Aramaic, and Lycian, it is still crucial to the on-going cracking of Lycian. All this, however, was of no interest to the only other occupants of the site, who were much more interested in the limestone-lined swimming pool created by the current flooding of the site.


The formation swimming team during practice

Only about five kilometres away lie the remains of Xanthus (map) itself. This is famous as the home of some of the British Museum's most prized treasures, including the Harpy and Nereid monuments. Though rather forlorn without their sculpture, they were still commanding in their position overlooking one of the main roads into the city.


The Nereid monument sans sculpture (see BM website)

Rather less portable were the remains of the ancient theatre. This particular theatre seems unusual for this region, as the first we have seen which was converted by the Romans for gladiatorial and wild-animal hunts. Though this is common elsewhere (eg, Ionia), it is not here for reasons not entirely clear to me; arguing from the size of the city alone simply does not seem sufficient as an explanans.


Note the original seat line

Our final site was Patara (map), perhaps the largest seaport in Lycia, As such, it boasts what some claim to be the world's oldest lighthouse remains, from c AD 60.


It was presumably just a tad taller in antiquity

Another unusual building is a very fine monumental arch honouring Mettius Modestus, governor of Lycia between c AD 99 and AD 102. This is distinctive just in its location (perhaps the only such in Lycia?), but in not honouring/being vowed by an emperor (again, perhaps the only such?).


The arch cunningly also formed part of the aqueduct

Being on the sea, however, the site exploration would not have been complete without a visit to the beach, - and I am pleased to be able to report that the Mediterranean is just a tad warmer than it was in Selinunte exactly a month ago!


Nothing but sea, sky, - and a group from the American School


Just minding my own business

1 comment:

  1. Well done, John.
    I liked the "children" swimming!!!!
    Much love
    Mum
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