Sicily

I am just back from the first optional trip of the year, which this year was a joint trip with the American Academy at Rome to Sicily. As such, we had not one, but two Mellon Professors to shepherd us, Corey Brennan, Margie's opposite number in Rome, helping us cause chaos and mayhem wherever we went. Alas, though, no internet access was to be had, so, rather than a blow-by-blow account, I have just included some of the highlights below.

Perhaps the highest was the very first site we visited, the Cappella Palatina in Palermo, which has some of the finest Byzantine Mosaics surviving anywhere in the world. Built by the norman king, Roger II (1095-1154), it is a fine token of the vibrant and prosperous city of the time.

The main apse

Eve is born of Adam

Or Selinus, the largest archaeological park in Europe, containing multiple temples and sanctuaries, including the largest temple surviving in the Doric order, merely c 100m by 50m (yes, except Agrigento, but that had partly engaged columns). The capitals have to be seen (and climbed) to be believed. Getting up, though, was sometimes much easier than getting down.

Now, how did I get up here?

Temple G overview

An offering to Demeter Maleophorus

Unfortunately, because of the recent rains, we could not visit all the sites on our itinerary, but there were some unexpected treats, such as running into Malcolm Bell, the excavator at Morgantina, who proceeded to give us an impromptu tour of the site. and, of course, the food. The Food! We were fortunate to have several afficionadoes among us, who scouted out Slow Food accredited restaurants as we went; and, when we were in a hurry, there was no shortage of markets to raid for lunch. Mmm...

Cakes from Noto

Cyclades Day VI: Naxos

Naxos has a wonderfully different feel from the other islands... it is somehow more raw, if that is not too foolish a thing to say, - and not just because the weather was a tad more blustery than during the rest of the trip. There was something quite special about walking across the causeway to the temple of Delian Apollo being sprayed by the waves on both sides.

Naxos town from the temple of Delian Apollo

The archaeological museum itself is a wonderful building dating back to the frankish period, and used to house a school where Nikos Kazantzakis was a student. The exhibits are scattered through a rabbit-warren of vaults, making a visit wonderful fun, - except that, alas, no photographs were allowed either me or choris flas.

Modern quarrying activity

So, I headed out into the country to explore. Naxos, like Paros, was famous for its marble in antiquity, and a particular highlight here are the remains of no less than three separate kouroi. These monumental statues of young men, most commonly naked, were used as funerary markers or as offerings in the great sanctuaries during the archaic period (700-500 BC). To reduce weight during transportation, the statues were often roughly carved in the quarries, and only then transported, - but something went horribly wrong in these casees. Some-one must have been a tad peeved.

Naxos abandoned kouros, sans legs

Two of these kouroi are right in the middle of the island, by an unusual open-air sanctuary seemingly dedicated to the heroes of the stone-cutters, and at the source of a 11km long aqueduct that took water from the lush centre of the island down to the coast which seems at least in part to date back to the sixth century BC. All of which, like the many Naxian dedications at Delos, is strong evidence of Naxos' prosperity at this time.

Exposed remains of archaic aqueduct

The third, - and most spectacular, - though, is right in the north of the island, - but who decided to close the only petrol station that side of Naxos town?! I was coasting on empty by the time I made it back to the port...

10.5m Kouros - of Dionysus perhaps?

Cyclades Day V: Paros

Two temples, four maps, six locations?!

How difficult can it be to find a temple, you might ask? Well... when it came to the temples of Apollo Pythius and the Asclepium... To give the archaeological museum credit, the map there at least shewed them on roughly the right stretch of road, but the others? Whose idea was it to suggest the Asclepium was near the airport? or Apollo Pythius inland, near the monastery of Christus Dasus? Oh, and did I mention that they are in fact one complex?! (Perhaps unsurprisingly: compare Epidaurus, eg, for the father and son's juxtaposition.) A wonderful way to explore the island, admittedly, but it would be no lie to say it became a tad frustrating...

Unlike the archaeological museum itself, which was just wonderful. For the first time this trip, I was also not the only visitor. Instead, I had company. Very persistent company.

My fellow visitor at the museum.

He followed me from room to room very assiduously. Did I look like I had nefarious intentions?

Geometric amphora with continuous narrative front

I then hunted down the Temple of Athena, which was supposed to be quite spectacular.

Temple of Athena remains?

Which it was. Honest. Just a few metres further inland, where the Duke of Naxos borrowed a few pieces of this (and other) archaia for his castle c1260.

Frankish Castle, Paroikia

Then, 'twas time to head out across the island. Just before leaving, though, I made the mistake of seeing if I could leave my bag at an agency, - and the lady there was very persuasive as to the merits of a 20EUR car rental. Much easier. Off I went, exploring a Mycenaean Acropolis in the north of the island at Koukounaries, the wonderful quarries (on which more tomorrow on Naxos, no doubt), and, not least, - taking advantage of the beautiful sunshine, - just idyllic Cycladic villages. Well, mostly idyllic...

Spot the difference...

These two pictures were taken five metres apart in the same village. Guess which is the tourist route?

Cyclades Day IV: Syros

Syros. Well. Many of you have heard me wax lyrical about the joys of Nafplio/Nauplion. Ermoupolis, the largest town in Syros (and in the Cyclades) is the same, - or perhaps even better. Just like Nauplion, there are beautiful 19th century squares and mansions to enjoy, and the people are so, so friendly. It is also the largest town in the Cyclades, and the administrative centre for the region, so there is much more to do off season than in somewhere like Mykonos, where at least half of the shops and most of the bars were shut out of season. It was certainly the right decision to spend my Monday 'off' (when nearly all archaeological sites are shut) here.

Syros Harbour - Old Customs House et al

After arriving on Sunday night, I hopped on the last bus to get an idea for the geography of the island, - an hour-long tour of the more developed, southern half of the island, - and then wandered through the town. Just wonderful, though, as ever, there were poignant reminders of Greece's turbulent past throughout the town.

War Memorial

Syros Town Hall

As I explored, I found the cinema, and saw that the film Η λευκή Κορδέλα was scheduled that night. I was sure it was familiar, - the announcement stated it had won a Golden Globe and a Palme d'Or, but, perhaps because of the long day, I could not place it, or the director: Μίχαελ Χάνεκε. Odd name for an Englishman, - and the given foreigntitle, The White Band, certainly was not familiar. It was only when it started that it clicked: Das weiße Band. The film was just wonderful; the point here, though: it wrought absolute havoc with my Greek for the next eighteen hours or so.

The next morning, I continued my exploration of Ermoupolis, and then began the long climb up the hill towards Ano Syros, the mediaeval settlement full, in typical Cycladic fashion, of narrow windy streets, cobbled streets, tiny churches, but here with the added entertainment of stairs, and the slight quirk that many of these churches are Catholic, from the long Venetian presence on the island.

Deep breath

The path through Ano Syros is also the only way to reach the northern half of the island, through a lone pass through the mountains to reach my nominal goal of the day and excuse for the hike: a prehistoric settlement at Kastri. Up, and up, and up... a long, wild climb. About a kilometre outside Ano Syros, though, the first car to pass stopped to offer me a lift. I thanked him, and kept walking. Another five hundred metres... a second... then a third... then a fourth!

View over NW Syros with Andros in the background

Cyclades Day III: Delos

Up bright and early, the sky is clear - no sign of last night's thunderstorm. Phew. Not wanting to risk a repeat of Friday, I dash down to the quay for seven thirty as instructed, to find: nothing - except a delightful Chinese chap also foolish enough to be punctual (it turns out he is finishing a stage in Brussels and wanted to explore Greece before heading back East.) c eight, there is finally some movement, but: too much wind. Maybe in half an hour. D'oh! If only that had happened on Friday!

Feeling the swell as we approach Delos

Just after nine, though, we finally head off, and arrive at ten on the sacred island, the birthplace of Apollo and Artemis.

Overview from the Sanctuary of the Egyptian gods

A few hours is not nearly enough to do the site justice, -but it is something, and made all the more precious by being the only person in the museum. (Well, except for the three guards, who, evidently used to having the island to themselves, were putting the world to rights at the top of their voices, and knew how to take full advantage of the museum's acoustics!)

Archaic Corinthian Aryballus with Gorgon


Hellenistic Frieze

Finds from the Insula of the Jewels

A few hoots on the horn, and I dash back to the boat: so much more to see, but I do not want to be stranded until the next boat: next Friday! As we leave, I marvel at how close Rhenaea is. No wonder Polycrates could connect the two islands with a chain. A quick dash up to Mykonos new port, though, and I am on my way to Syros...

Cyclades Day II: Mykonos

I explored Mykonos town and the archaeological museum yesterday, so today was a chance to explore the interior. Again, looking at the map, Mykonos' main attractions were beaches, - but there was a monastery and a castle marked near the one inland settlement, Ano Mera - and a few chats at the kafeneion revealed archaia on the north coast. I was in no hurry, so how about a bus?

Er...

hmm... perhaps not. As the crow flies, it looked about 6km to Ano Mera, so rather than hire a car, off I walked. and, sure enough, down on Panormos bay, there was what looked like the remains of an archaeological site, - and perhaps even a shipshed in the distance.

'prehistoric settlement', Panormos bay

Afterwards, I rolled on to the Castle, which was right by a monastery (appropriately enough in a spot named Palaeokastro ['old castle']) not on my map...

Palaeokastro

and found the other monastery, before cutting back cross-country, with the entire island to myself. Except, that is, for a few animals, some of whom were rather more phlegmatic at my appearance than others.

Ready...

Go!

As I nod off to sleep after a good six hours' hiking, I hear a clap of thunder, and the woosh of a rainstorm. Great...

Cyclades Day I: Delos - or will it be Mykonos - or Tinos?

Up bright and early: the only way to Delos is by boat from Mykonos but, being off-season, I was not entirely sure if/when there would be ferries. Hmm... So, I decided to fly to Mykonos and dash straight to the port, on the off-chance there was a boat on the Friday: it would not leave before eight o'clock, surely? No, but it would - and did - leave at ten past eight, and when I reached the quay at quarter past was just a speck in the distance bobbing up and down on the seas.

No boat?

No other boat today; or tomorrow; - but there might be on Sunday,. So that was that. Instead, I had a delightful time exploring Mykonos town, - a typically picture-postcard Cycladic town with lots of white-washed houses overhanging narrow, windy streets, -

Mykonos Chora

and then the archaeological museum, before nipping off to Tinos for the afternoon.

Academy Painter, 3q 5th BC

I did nott want another early start the Saturday morning, and I was keen to see the Evangelistria, the archaeological museum, and just to wander round the island. Alas, when I arrived: the museum was κλειστό. Not sure if this is by ministerial decree, or the guards had just decided to go home early, - but Evangelistria more than made up for it: one night in 1822, Pelagia, a nun of Tinos, dreamed that a miraculous icon was buried nearby. She led her neighbors to the place she had seen, and, on digging, they discovered the remains of a Byzantine church with the icon. The icon depicts Mary kneeling in prayer, is believed to have miraculous healing powers, and is the focus of pilgramage from all over Greece.

1824 Church complex housing the Evangelistria

Afterwards, looking at the map, there were two possible goals: an old Venetian castle c 10km away on a 640m outcrop (a bit forbidding?), and a temple of Demeter and Amphitrite, - no mention of a temple of Poseidon, unfortunately. So I hiked out north to the temple, and then in a large loop round to the south of Tinos town. It was a huge sanctuary in the Hellenistic period, as the size of the enclosed archaeological area perhaps corroborates, but, alas, the remains are less than impressive...