Varna (map) vies with Plovdiv as Bulgaria's second-largest city, and is the focus of the Bulgarian Black Sea coast. It also, to me, had a very different feel from Sofia: the centre seemed much more spacious and leafy, and the people more at ease.
Varna Cathedral
Varna Theatre
As (almost) ever in Bulgaria, the archaeological museum did not allow photography. It did, though, have a statue outside commemorating the 'founders of Bulgarian Archaeology', as they were described to me: Karel (1859-1944) and Hermin (1858-1923) Shkorpil, both Czechs by extraction. One friend commented that they formed part of a rather more peaceful form of Pan-Slavism than has at other times been current.
Karel and Hermin Shkorpil
Besides the museum itself, the most significant archaeological site in Varna (ancient Odessus) are the baths, reputed to be the third or fourth largest complex excavated thus far, with the tower still standing to a height of eighteen metres!
The Baths' Apodyterium
Varna was, though, special to me for two quite distinct reasons. The first: the first female cantors at an Orthodox service. I have lost count of the number of services I have attended or happened upon this past year, and the cantor(s) has always been male, until now. I imagine they are not as infrequent as my effectively anecdotal experience suggests, - but it was striking to hear. The second: for a ridiculous system in the archaeology museum lavatories whereby there was but one roll of paper outside the cubicles. Can this really save that much time, - or even paper? At least with the paper, I imagine it might well be counter-productive...
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