Peja

The Patriarchate of Peć (map), just outside Peja (map) in the direction of the border with Montenegro, is a glorious complex of no fewer than four separate churches, all of which are covered in wonderful frescoes dating as far back as the thirteenth century. As ever, no photographs inside, but we did meet some Serb pilgrims, who were visiting from Belgrade for the week, and they shewed us round the wider complex, including the fish ponds and farm, and then Vučić and his grandfather offered us coffee.

Patriarchate of Peć

Coffee at the Patriarchate

A delightful way to watch the sun go down, - especially as, though the KFOR soldiers were Italian, they told us they were not allowed off base to eat, so could not offer recommendations for the evening. Back in the centre, though, we did not do too badly: a wonderful feast of meat!

On the menu tonight: sausage, sausage, and... sausage!

Is it just me...?

Breakfast was, though, a particular treat. The food itself was our normal fayre: a feast of burek, filo pastry wrapped round a meat, cheese, or spinach filling, and yoghurt to drink. This time, though, we saw it made, and how the bakers kneaded the dough, spinning it round their heads and throwing it on the top to make it delightfully thin.

Poetry in motion

On a different culinary note, though: Cappuccino universally involved mounds of cream piled high above the cup. I eventually remembered, and switched to espresso (much more available than Greek/Turkish/Cypriot coffee), but not before a few traumas.

Hmm...