Whether or not Ohrid (map) did once boast hundred and sixty five churches, its religious history is rich, as befits the final resting place of St Clement, tradionally considered the inventor of Cyrillic (as the name suggests, another tradition credits St Cyril and St Methodius). It also has a glorious location on Lake Ohrid, and, even in April, there were plenty of people eager to offer rides round the lake.
Ohrid
High up on the peak overlooking the town is Samuil's fortress, the capital of the First Bulgarian Empire under Samuil (AD 997-1014), though recent evidence suggests possible late Classical or Hellenistic occupation of the site as well (or, if you prefer, suggests Philip II built a fortress here...)
View over the town and lake from Samuil's Fortress
Samuil's Fortress
Further out towards the peninsula sits the basilica of St Clement, freshly restored to its original form, and sitting in the middle of an archaeological zone, not of the green Selinuntine variety, but of the late antique brick variety. With restoration ongoing, it will be interesting to see how the presentation of the site changes over the next few years.
More serene is the church of Sveti Jovan Kaneo, on the very tip of the peninsula some way from the town. Nothing but a few fighting puppies to disturb the peace!
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