Monday, 22 March 2010

Cyclades Day V: Paros

Two temples, four maps, six locations?!

How difficult can it be to find a temple, you might ask? Well... when it came to the temples of Apollo Pythius and the Asclepium... To give the archaeological museum credit, the map there at least shewed them on roughly the right stretch of road, but the others? Whose idea was it to suggest the Asclepium was near the airport? or Apollo Pythius inland, near the monastery of Christus Dasus? Oh, and did I mention that they are in fact one complex?! (Perhaps unsurprisingly: compare Epidaurus, eg, for the father and son's juxtaposition.) A wonderful way to explore the island, admittedly, but it would be no lie to say it became a tad frustrating...

Unlike the archaeological museum itself, which was just wonderful. For the first time this trip, I was also not the only visitor. Instead, I had company. Very persistent company.


My fellow visitor at the museum.

He followed me from room to room very assiduously. Did I look like I had nefarious intentions?


Geometric amphora with continuous narrative front

I then hunted down the Temple of Athena, which was supposed to be quite spectacular.


Temple of Athena remains?

Which it was. Honest. Just a few metres further inland, where the Duke of Naxos borrowed a few pieces of this (and other) archaia for his castle c1260.


Frankish Castle, Paroikia

Then, 'twas time to head out across the island. Just before leaving, though, I made the mistake of seeing if I could leave my bag at an agency, - and the lady there was very persuasive as to the merits of a 20EUR car rental. Much easier. Off I went, exploring a Mycenaean Acropolis in the north of the island at Koukounaries, the wonderful quarries (on which more tomorrow on Naxos, no doubt), and, not least, - taking advantage of the beautiful sunshine, - just idyllic Cycladic villages. Well, mostly idyllic...


Spot the difference...

These two pictures were taken five metres apart in the same village. Guess which is the tourist route?

No comments:

Post a Comment